The traditional image of a farmer standing in their field, surrounded by plants and animals, might not exactly describe father-son farming partners John and Aaron Thamm of Middle Fork Mushroom Company. Their “fields” started in a pair of garages. Their “soil” consists of bags of sterile wood chips and wood dust. Their “produce” is neither animal nor plant. As mushroom farmers, John and Aaron join a growing contingent of farmers challenging the notion of what defines farming and opening doors to bring flavors new (and very, very ancient) to Central Illinois.
The Thamms didn’t originally see themselves as farmers. John is retired and Aaron works in healthcare. With names like Pioppino, Black Pearl King, Lion’s Mane, Maitake, or Blue Oyster the mushrooms Aaron and John grow are very different from your standard grocery store fare. When you think of a mushroom, chances are you are thinking of Agricarus bisporus, easily the most common grocery store mushroom in America. Everything from white or button mushrooms, cremini or brown mushrooms, portabella or baby bella mushrooms all are simply different ages and forms of Agricarus bisporus. Contributing to the most recognizable “mushroom” flavor, all forms of Agricarus bisporus are grown in very hot, fresh compost – often composed of manure, straw, spent grain, and other amendments.
Middle Fork Mushroom Company grows completely different types of mushrooms, raised on decomposing wood instead of manure-based compost. And, they raise distinct varieties – quite a lot of them! Imagine any other produce type represented only by a single variety. If you had only ever tasted a cucumber, to the point you thought that all cucurbit family plants were cucumbers, wouldn’t it be surprising to be introduced to a big, perfectly ripe watermelon (another member of the cucurbit family)!
Often grouped together as “wild” mushrooms, many of the varieties that you’ll find at Middle Fork Mushroom Company are cultivated versions of the same mushrooms growing in the forests that John and Aaron love to explore along the Middle Fork River. Others have rich culinary traditions associated with other cultures from Italy to Japan. One thing remains consistent: All of the varieties offered by Middle Fork Mushroom Company are special – the kind of mushrooms as likely to be featured in a three-star Michelin restaurant dish as a treasured family heirloom recipe (complete with instructions to the location of a family’s secret foraging spot).
Surprisingly, flavor wasn’t what started Middle Fork Mushroom Company. Aaron is quick to clarify that, while research is still very new, the emerging evidence of the health benefits of the mushroom varieties that he and his father grow is what initially attracted him to learning to grow mushrooms. When John suffered a major heart attack, discovering the world of mushrooms and eating healthier became a lot more important to the entire Thamm family. They both hope to someday be able to share about health effects along with flavor, but current research is still too new and FDA rules require very well-established research before making any health claims – for good reason!
Like farmers across Illinois, John and Aaron Thamm are following their dream of providing nutritious, flavorful, high-quality food. Their laminar hood, spore prints, and grow rooms might be a little different than the more recognizable tractors, seeds, and fields of others at the farmers market, but that isn’t stopping Middle Fork Mushroom Company from joining others in providing a different kind of farm product – mushrooms! John and Aaron’s challenge to you: The door is open to access the wide world of fungi. What culinary adventure will you take?
Follow Middle Fork Mushroom Company Facebook page.
Rural Routes is a new blog centered on exploring the world of Illinois Specialty Crop growers by Kelly Lay – Local Foods Program Manager for The Land Connection
